Harihareshwar is Maharashtra’s Murudeshwar, a sunny temple town by a sylvan palm-lined beach. The town of Harihareshwar, or Dakshin Kashi as it is popularly known, is an a pilgrimage centre and an ideal beach resort, the former because of the latter and vice versa. When you’re done cavorting in the sea, you can pay your respects to god, before returning to the sea divine.
Like many other small Konkani towns which have nothing to prove, this one too is content to bask in anonymity in spite of the famous Kalbhairav Temple of Shiva here, as if fame was of no use other than as a means to draw people closer to their religious conviction. The town awakens slowly in the day, with devotees making their way to the temple for the early morning ritual. In the afternoon, the town recedes into a siesta and everything is shut down- at least the place to eat. In the evening, there is a gentle stirring as the town comes awake again and then, before you know it, another day is gone as the town downs its shutters for the night. Harihareshwar captures perfectly the all’s-well-that-ends-well- attitude and you would be led to believe that no untoward incident ever happens or is ever likely to happen here.
Activity / Things to see and do
It seems like Harihareshwar is quite reluctant to offer more than its temple by the beach and its beach by the temple. After you’ve paid your respects to the gods, taken a swim and snoozed on the beach, you know that you are finally free to just sit and reflect on eternity even as the town appears to be a land that time forgot.
The most famous exhibit here is the Kalbhairav (Shiva) temple, which has as much a sense of timelessness to it as the waves lapping against the seashore. Said to have been established by the sage Agasti Muni, it’s actually difficult to pinpoint the exact date of its construction. Evidence suggests its origin sometime durning Shivaji’s lifetime and it’s believed that the Maratha king visited Harihareshwar in 1674, but it was certainly rebuilt in or around 1723 by the first peshwa. At the rare of the temple are steps leading to the top of a hill and confronted by a huge boulder split into half. Legend has it that the pandavas of the Mahabharata fame, while in exile, had visited Harihareshwar . Finding their path blocked by a boulder, mighty Bhima wielded his fist and smashed the rock in two. At the bottom, towards the right, is a cleft in another rock from where issues forth sweet, drinkable water or so the locals claim. But I can’t verify that as I didn’t stop for a sip. Down there, beside a huge carved in rock. The temple opens around 6 am and shuts shop by 9pm.
Test the waters
After you’re done with prayer, there’s a flight of stone steps leading down to Harihareshwar beach which is as long as it’s name , all 11/2 km of it. The beach, actually split in two parts, north and south, by the Kalbhairav Temple complex is more often than not sparsely populated, especially on weekdays. The southern beach, where the MTDC resort is locked, is just what you dreamed about. The sand is not as white as in some other beaches but it is clean and the seclusion can give rise to romantic inclinations if you’re on that sort of a holiday. The southern stretch is mostly deserted, as most pilgrims after visiting the temple feel they deserve a bit of material indulgence. They usually lounge about by the water and head straight for the chaat stalls and sundry amusement on the northern beach, which also sees mush action when the fishing boats come in. Warning the long beach is quite inviting but there are strong and treacherous undercurrents, which locals and temple officials say have caused many a mishap. Swim during high tide and even then, don’t venture too far out.
Ganesh gully
This is a narrow cleft about 3 ft wide between two rocks, just about 150 ft behind Kalbhairav Temple that goes down to the sea. Apparently, at the bottom of this cleft, there is a niche between the sea rocks, which is about 30 ft underwater. It seems that at high tide when the waves dash against the shore and are receding, a Ganesh idol can be seen, depending on the force of the retreat. But the person narrating this to me hasn’t seen it of late, although he claims to have seen the idol during his childhood days. Conversely, it appears that at low tide it is easy to see the statue at the bottom of the niche, when the waters have receded far from shore. It’s all a matter of belief, as the tide doesn’t venture far out enough to get a glimpse.
Bhagmandala
Across the creek from Harihareshwar is Bankot Fort in Bagmandala , that you’ll have to persuade a boatman o take you to. Once on shore, walk past the village of velas-birthplace of Nana Phadnavis-to get to Bankot , which in time was controlled by the Adilshah, the Portuguese, the Angres and finally the British. The later, ever unimaginative, failed to be charmed by the unusual name and renamed the fort ‘Victoria’. Fortunately; the name never stuck. While here, hang out on Bagmandala beach.
Getting There
Car this is your best option as rail connections are very poor to Mangaon. Take NH17 through pen, Nagothane, Kolad and Mangaon to Lonera Phata. Turn right towards Goregaon and Mhasla. Drive till you come to the Arathi road junction. Shrivardhan is 4 km straight ahead, the left turn is SH98 to Harihareshwar, 15 lm away En route halts Kamath’s at Nagothane and Hotel open Umbrella at Mangaon are good for a bite Bus just one bus leaves Mumbai Central ST Stand at 2.45 pm (61/2 hrs ) Better to catch a bus to Shrivardhan and go to Harihareshwar from there.
More on Harihareshwar!
Harihareshwar is the undisputed ‘Devghaar’ or house or god, in the Kokan. The legend goes that sage Vashisht declared this town to be the place where one can be freed from the cycle of birth and death and attain salvation. That’s why the temple is always crowded with people who come here to perform rituals for their dead.
Another interesting story lies behind the facade of the kalbhairav temple. Once upon a time, it is believed, two demons were harassing the local Konkan folk. Lord Harihar, for whom the town is named, interceded on their behalf and his prayers were answered when the mother goddess brought the demons back to the path of righteousness. A yagna of thanksgiving was planned and Goddess Savitri was to perform the ceremonies, but she forgot all about it and didn’t show up. Goddess Gayatri had to stand in for Savitri . Inexplicably, this threw Savitri into a holy rang. She turned Gayaatri into a river and all who attended the event into water to join Gayatri in enternl punishment.
All this injustice invited intervention from an even higher authority, namely Vishnu. He instantly turned Savitri into a river as well. And there she flows till today, into the Arabian and Bagmandala..
